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Las expediciones se encuentran en su proceso de aclimatación para escalar el K2.
A partir de mañana (hoy) comenzará una ventana de mejor tiempo donde se podrá completar la aclimatación y seguir con la instalación de cuerdas fijas entre los campos de altura. El objetivo del trabajo en la ventana será la instalación de los 4 campamentos y el asalto a la cumbre se realizará en la ventana siguiente de buen tiempo.
Actualmente hay cuatro expediciones en la campo base (BC):
- Un equipo de tres sherpas.
- Un equipo independiente de tres personas.
- Una expedición comercial de 49 personas (22 clientes y 27 sherpas de apoyo).
- Un equipo de sherpas y nepalíes de apoyo a un sólo cliente que quiere llegar a la cumbre.
Winter K2 Update: Changes | The Blog on alanarnette.com
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Fotos del BC:
Novedades:
- Fuertes vientos en el K2 destruyeron todos los campamentos instalados (C1 y C2) así como la pérdida de equipamiento y de las cuerdas fijas.
- Cada expedición se encuentra en proceso de reevaluar los pasos siguientes:
* Expedición de Mingma Sherpa: probablemente no escalen la cumbre dada la destrucción de sus equipos en la montaña.
* Expedición de Nim Purja: la idea original era escalar sin oxígeno y bajar de la cumbre en parapente dada la exigencia del auspiciador (Red Bull) y ahora están viendo que hacer debido a la pérdida completa de equipamiento. Ven la opción de llevar a cabo el proyecto en verano.
* Expedición de Snorri: perdieron todos los campamentos, cuerdas y material instalado en el K2 hasta el C2. Ven una remota opción de intentar algo.
* Expedición comercial de Seven Summit Treks (22 clientes, 27 sherpas de apoyo): afirman que no perdieron demasiado hasta el nivel del campamento 2 y están viendo como instalar el campamento 4 y después tender cuerdas en el área del Bottleneck.
En el caso de la expedición de Seven Summit Treks, están reconstruyendo la ruta de las cuerdas fijas para reinstalar el campo 2. Mañana tienen pensado lo mismo para colocar el campamento 3. Para el 15 de enero está programada la operación para instalar la ruta y el campamento 4. Los miembros de la expedición están rotando para aclimatarse en la montaña.Eso quiere decir que el plan original sigue en pie entonces ?
en parapente poh conchetumare* Expedición de Nim Purja: la idea original era escalar sin oxígeno y bajar de la cumbre en parapente dada la exigencia del auspiciador (Red Bull) y ahora están viendo que hacer debido a la pérdida completa de equipamiento. Ven la opción de llevar a cabo el proyecto en verano.
No. | Name | S | Nationality | Date | Exp. | Route | Location | Cause | |
1 | Dudley Wolfe | American | Jul 30, 1939 | American | SE ridge | Camp VII , 7550 m | probably altitude-sickness,exhaustion | ||
2 | Pasang Kikuli | Nepalese Sherpa | Jul 31, 1939 | American | SE ridge | between Camp VI and VII | disappeared | ||
3 | Pasang Kitar | Nepalese Sherpa | Jul 31, 1939 | American | SE ridge | between Camp VI and VII | disappeared | ||
4 | Pintso | Nepalese Sherpa | Jul 31, 1939 | American | SE ridge | between Camp VI and VII | disappeared | ||
5 | Arthur Gilkey | American | Aug 10, 1953 | American | SE ridge | near Camp VII (7450 m) | avalanche | ||
6 | Mario Puchoz | Italian | Jun 21, 1954 | Italian | SE ridge | Camp II (5900 m) | pneumonia | ||
7 | Nicholas J. Estcourt | British | Jun 12, 1978 | British | W ridge | near Camp II | avalanche | ||
8 | Ali, Son of Kazim | Pakistani | Jun 9, 1979 | International | SE ridge | Savoia glacier | fall into crevasse | ||
9 | Laskhar Khan | Pakistani | Aug 19, 1979 | French | SSW ridge | between Camp III and IV | stroke | ||
10 | Halina Kr�ger-Syrokomska | f | Polish | Jul 30, 1982 | Polish | SE ridge | Camp II (6700 m) | stroke | |
11 | Yukihiro Yanagisawa | Japanese | Aug 15, 1982 | Japanese | N ridge | during descent | fall | ||
12 | Daniel Lacroix | French | Jul 7, 1985 | French | SE ridge | during descent | disappeared | ||
13 | Alan Pennington | American | Jun 21, 1986 | American | SSW ridge | at about 6000 m | avalanche | ||
14 | John Smolich | American | Jun 21, 1986 | American | SSW ridge | at about 6000 m | avalanche | ||
15 | Liliane Barrard | f | French | Jun 24, 1986 | French | SE ridge | during descent | fall | |
16 | Maurice Barrard | French | Jun 24, 1986 | French | SE ridge | during descent | disappeared | ||
17 | Tadeusz Piotrowski | Polish | Jul 10, 1986 | International | S face | during descent | fall | ||
18 | Renato Casarotto | Italian | Jul 16, 1986 | Italian/Spanish Basque | SSW ridge | at about 5100 m | fall into crevasse | ||
19 | Wojciech Wr�ź | Polish | Aug 3, 1986 | Polish | SSW ridge | during descent | fall | ||
20 | Mohammad Ali | Pakistani | Aug 4, 1986 | South Korean | SE ridge | near Camp I | hit by rockfall | ||
21 | Julie Tullis | f | British | Aug 7, 1986 | International | SE ridge | Camp IV (8000 m) | probably altitude-sickness,exhaustion | |
22 | Alan Rouse | British | Aug 10, 1986 | British | SE ridge | Camp IV (8000 m) | probably altitude-sickness,exhaustion | ||
23 | Alfred Imitzer | Austrian | Aug 10, 1986 | Austrian | SE ridge | below Camp IV | probably altitude-sickness,exhaustion | ||
24 | Hannes Wieser | Austrian | Aug 10, 1986 | Austrian | SE ridge | below Camp IV | probably altitude-sickness,exhaustion | ||
25 | Dobrosława Miodowicz-Wolf | f | Polish | Aug 10, 1986 | Polish | SE ridge | between Camp II and III | unknown | |
26 | Akira Suzuki | Japanese | Aug 24, 1987 | Japanese/Pakistani | SE ridge | about 8200 m | fall | ||
27 | Hans B�rnthaler | Austrian | Jul 28, 1989 | Austrian | E face | nearby peak | windslab avalanche | ||
28 | Adri�n Ben�tez | Mexican | Aug 14, 1992 | International | SE ridge | below shoulder (7775 m) | fall | ||
29 | Bo�tjan Kekec | Slovenian | Jun 15, 1993 | Slovenian | SE ridge | below Camp IV | probably altitude-sickness,exhaustion | ||
30 | Dan Culver | Canadian | Jul 7, 1993 | American/Canadian | SE ridge | during descent | fall | ||
31 | Daniel Bidner | Swedish | Jul 30, 1993 | International | SE ridge | above Camp IV | cerebral edema, fall | ||
32 | Reinmar Joswig | German | Jul 30, 1993 | International | SE ridge | during descent | fall | ||
33 | Peter Mezger | German | Jul 30, 1993 | International | SE ridge | during descent | fall | ||
34 | Dmitri Ibragim-Zade | Ukrainian | Jul 10, 1994 | Ukrainian | SE ridge | about 8400 m | fall ? | ||
35 | Aleksei Kharaldin | Ukrainian | Jul 10, 1994 | Ukrainian | SE ridge | about 8400 m | exhaustion ? | ||
36 | Aleksandr Parkhomenko | Ukrainian | Jul 10, 1994 | Ukrainian | SE ridge | about 8400 m | exhaustion ? | ||
37 | Steve Untch | American | Jul 24, 1994 | International | SSE ridge | above Camp I | fall, broken rope | ||
38 | Juan Ignacio (Atxo) Apellaniz | Spanish | Aug 10, 1994 | Spanish Basque | N ridge | Camp II | exhaustion | ||
39 | Jordi Angl�s | Spanish | Jul 6, 1995 | Spanish Catalan | SE ridge | near Base Camp | fall | ||
40 | Javier Escart�n | Spanish | Aug 13, 1995 | Spanish Aragonese | SSE ridge | during descent | disappeared during storm | ||
41 | Bruce Grant | New Zealander | Aug 13, 1995 | New Zealander | SE ridge | during descent | disappeared during storm | ||
42 | Alison Hargreaves | f | British | Aug 13, 1995 | International | SE ridge | during descent | fall | |
43 | Javier Olivar | Spanish | Aug 13, 1995 | Spanish Aragonese | SSE ridge | during descent | disappeared during storm | ||
44 | Lorenzo Ortiz | Spanish | Aug 13, 1995 | Spanish Aragonese | SSE ridge | during descent | fall | ||
45 | Rob Slater | American | Aug 13, 1995 | International | SE ridge | during descent | disappeared during storm | ||
46 | Jeff Lakes | Canadian | Aug 15, 1995 | New Zealander | SE ridge | Camp II | exhaustion | ||
47 | Lorenzo Mazzoleni | Italian | Jul 29, 1996 | Italian | SE ridge | about 8000 m | fall | ||
48 | Igor Benkin | Russian | Aug 14, 1996 | Russian | N ridge | above 8000 m | exhaustion, hypoxia | ||
49 | Mihai Cioroianu | Romanian | Jul 10, 1999 | Italian | SE ridge | below Camp I (6000 m) | hit by rockfall | ||
50 | Park Young-Do | South Korean | Jul 22, 2001 | South Korean | SSE ridge | near Camp IV | fall | ||
51 | Sher Ajman | Pakistani | Jul 13, 2002 | Spanish | SSE ridge | below Camp I | avalanche | ||
52 | Muhammad Iqbal | Pakistani | Jul 22, 2002 | Chinese-Pakistani | SE ridge | near Camp III | fall | ||
53 | Klaus-Dieter Grohs | German | Jul 21, 2003 | International | SE ridge | 8300 m | fall | ||
54 | Lee Hwa-hyong | South Korean | Jun 11, 2004 | South Korean | N ridge | Camp 1 | avalanche | ||
55 | Kim Jae-yong | South Korean | Jun 11, 2004 | South Korean | N ridge | Camp 1 | avalanche | ||
56 | Pae Kyong-kyu | South Korean | Jun 11, 2004 | South Korean | N ridge | Camp 1 | avalanche | ||
57 | Manel de la matta | Spanish | Aug 15, 2004 | Spanish | Magic line | Camp 1 | Altitude sickness | ||
58 | Davoud Khadem Asl | Iran | Jul 28, 2004 | International | SE ridge | Camp 2-3 | missing | ||
59 | Sergey Sokolov | Russian | Jul 28, 2004 | International | SE ridge | Camp 2-3 | missing | ||
60 | Aleksandr Gubaev | Kyr | Jul 28, 2004 | International | SE ridge | Camp 2-3 | missing | ||
61 | Uteshev Yury | Russian | Aug 10, 2006 | Russian | SE ridge | 8350m | avalanche | ||
62 | Foygt Alexander | Russian | Aug 10, 2006 | Russian | SE ridge | 8350m | avalanche | ||
63 | Kuvakin Arkadiy | Russian | Aug 10, 2006 | Russian | SE ridge | 8350m | avalanche | ||
64 | Kuznetsov Petr | Russian | Aug 10, 2006 | Russian | SE ridge | 8350m | avalanche | ||
65 | Nima Sherpa | Nepalese Sherpa | Jul 20, 2007 | South Korean | SE ridge | Bottleneck | fall | ||
66 | Zavka | Stefano | Italy | Jul 20, 2007 | Italian | SE ridge | Bottleneck | disappeared | |
67 | MANDIC | Dren | Serbia | Aug 1, 2008 | Serbia | SE ridge | Bottleneck | fall | |
68 | BAIG (BEG) | Jehan | Pakistan | Aug 1, 2008 | Pakistan | SE ridge | Bottleneck to C4 | fall | |
69 | BAE | Rolf | Norway | Aug 1, 2008 | Norway | SE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
70 | KIM | Hyo-Geong (Hyo-gyung) | South Korea | Aug 1, 2008 | South Korea | SE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
71 | PARK | Kyeong-Hyo | South Korea | Aug 1, 2008 | South Korea | SE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
72 | HWANG | Dong-Jin | South Korea | Aug 1, 2008 | South Korea | SE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
73 | BHOTE | Jumic | Nepal | Aug 1, 2008 | Nepal | SE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
74 | BHOTE | Pasang | Nepal | Aug 1, 2008 | Nepal | SE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
75 | McDONNELL | Gerard | Ireland | Aug 1, 2008 | Ireland | SSE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
76 | D'AUBAREDE | Hughes | France | Aug 1, 2008 | France | SSE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche | |
77 | MEHERBAN | Karim | Pakistan | Aug 1, 2008 | Pakistan | SSE ridge | Bottleneck | avalanche |
A las 5 de la tarde hora local, un grupo de sherpas y nepalíes logró conquistar la cumbre del K2.
El sublider del equipo de Seven Summit Treks sufrió una caída entre el campo 1 y el Base. Se trabaja en su rescate.
UPDATE: El accidentado murió.
Leí que ya la hicieron
El catalán que murió estaba con mohr. Asi que de una forma no deseada el chileno está en las noticiasEl sublider de SST no es Mohr? O hablas de un sherpa?
Segun informado anoche, un grupo de 4 Nepalies habria sobrepasado el record anterior de altitud lograda en invierno con 26,000 pies , por sobre una previa marcas de 25,250
Esto serian los nombres que habrian logrado cumbre el dia de hoy aprovechando ventanas de buen tiempo:
Tomorrow, Nirmal Purja, Mingma David, Mingma Tenzi and Mingma Gyalje will leave Camp 4 and try for a summit push if the weather remains good,” ACP Secretary Karrar Haidri said, adding their fifth climbing partner Sona Sherpa turned back.
(A confirmar)